The Shampoo Myth

Is shampoo the only way to clean hair? Are those expensive shampoos that promise sleek, shiny hair really worth it? Learn about alternatives to shampoo.


Shampoo is a hair product designed to thoroughly clean the hair and scalp of oil, dead skin cells, dirt, and grime that build up in the hair. Companies that make shampoo sell advertising encouraging consumers to wash their hair daily in order to have sleek, manageable hair. While shampoo is effective at cleaning dirt and oil from the hair, what the advertisers don't tell consumers is that shampoo actually strips the hair of natural, beneficial oils, causing the scalp to overproduce sebum (the natural oil produced by the scalp). For many people, it is necessary to shower at least once every 24 hours so that their hair does not look unattractive and greasy. Going more than a day without shampoo is unthinkable.

A Brief History of Shampoo

Dermatologists and hair care professionals agree that washing hair too frequently causes damage to hair, stripping it of the natural oils that protect it and give it a healthy shine. Americans did not always wash their hair every day. According to an NPR article, "When It Comes To Shampoo, Less Is More," it wasn't until the 1970s when the shampoo ad campaigns promised gorgeous flowing locks of hair, encouraging consumers to "lather, rinse, and repeat."

What's in Your Shampoo?

Contrary to what the advertisers would have us believe, more expensive shampoos are really not much better for hair than the cheaper stuff. No matter what type of shampoo you buy, the main ingredients are the same:

1. water
2. surfactant (a detergent to clean the hair of excess oil)
3. foaming agent (to produce lather)
4. acidic ingredient, such as citrus (to balance pH)
5. silicones, such as dimethicone (to coat the hair and add shine)
6. polyquaternium (to increase manageability and fight static)
7. panthenol, fatty alcohols, or nut oil (to moisturize and hydrate)
8. preservative*

The Independent Online recently published an article titled "Luxury Shampoo: It's All Just Hogwash" claiming that so-called luxury shampoos are essentially no different than less expensive shampoo. Spending more money on shampoo is, quite literally, pouring your money down the drain. The difference simply comes from the advertising, which leads consumers to believe pricier shampoos are better, and putting fancy fragrances and lathering agents in it to give you a luxurious experience in the shower.

Alternatives to Shampoo (or Going "No 'Poo")

There are many reasons to cut back on shampoo use, or even to stop using it completely. In fact, many Americans are joining the "No 'Poo" movement. Using shampoo less frequently allows your natural oils to stop overproduction and to become more balanced, giving the hair a healthy and natural shine. For the eco-conscious consumers, using less shampoo contributes less plastic waste. Buying less shampoo is also financially friendly.

Some people are able to do completely without shampoo and just use water to rinse their hair. Others make their own shampoos. Some use only conditioner, which keeps the hair soft without stripping it of the natural oils. Another method for those who aren't quite ready to give up the routine of using shampoo and conditioner is to use baking soda as shampoo and apple cider vinegar as conditioner. A mix of baking soda and water will get the hair clean and absorb grease without completely stripping away the natural oils. An apple cider vinegar rinse will keep the hair soft and manageable.
Make Your Own Shampoo and Conditioner: Baking Soda and Apple Cider Vinegar Recipe

You can make your own shampoo by simply mixing one tablespoon of baking soda in a mixture of warm water. Make sure that the baking soda dissolves completely. After wetting your hair in the shower, simply pour the mixture onto your head, gently massaging it into your scalp. The baking soda gently cleans your scalp and absorbs the extra oils. This method can have a somewhat drying effect on the hair, so it is best to use it only 2-3 times per week while your natural oils adjust.

Follow the baking soda application with a rinse of apple cider vinegar and water to make your hair sleek and manageable. Simply mix 1-2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar in 1-2 cups of water. Pour the mixture onto your head, focusing on the ends of your hair. Let it soak for about a minute, and rinse. Style your hair as normal. If you want a more fragrant experience, simply add a couple of drops of essential oil to your mix.

*Ingredient list from Newsweek, "The Science of Shampoo: What the Ingredients Mean."